First Time in Iceland? Read This Before You Book Anything

Iceland is a Nordic island country perched in the North Atlantic, just below the Arctic Circle, and the most sparsely populated country in Europe. It sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, and it never lets you forget that the ground beneath you is very much alive.

Thanks to the Gulf Stream, Iceland is milder than its latitude suggests. Summers are still chilly, though, and “temperate” is used generously. It’s lovely all year round. Summer visitors flock in for up to 20-22 hours of daylight and the most stable weather. Winter visitors come hoping for the elusive northern lights and a dramatic, otherworldly landscape.

Iceland is not your typical European destination. It’s smacked in the middle of the Atlantic, close to the Arctic Circle, and it plays by its own rules. Here are some tips if you’re a first-time visitor. I learned some of them the hard way on our 2020 trip, and I’ve updated everything for 2026.

Before You Go: Entry Rules

Iceland is part of the Schengen Area, so the usual Schengen visa rules apply. Since April 2026, the EU’s Entry/Exit System (EES) has been fully live at Schengen borders, including Keflavik. Passport stamps are gone for non-EU/EFTA visitors. On your first entry, they take your photo and fingerprints instead. It’s automatic and free, but allow a little extra time at the airport.

ETIAS, the separate online travel authorisation for visa-exempt travellers, was slated for the last quarter of 2026. As of now you still can’t apply for it, and its launch has slipped before, so check the official EU site closer to your trip. Beware of lookalike websites selling “ETIAS” applications.

Icelandic Weather

Whatever the time of year, expect all four seasons in one trip. Perhaps even in one day! Summer is colder than most people expect, with average temperatures of 10 to 15°C. It’s less wet than spring, but it does rain. Spring and autumn always carry the possibility of wind, rain and maybe even snow.

The most stable months are June, July and August. Winter runs December to March, with December and January the coldest and most changeable. You can get a blizzard, rain and a snowstorm in one week, then glorious weather the next.

If you Visit Iceland in Winter..

And you should, because Iceland is beautiful in winter and some things, like ice cave tours, can only be done then. But expect some harsh weather: snowstorms, sleet, icy rain, depending on how far north you are. Especially around end December and January, conditions can get so bad that roads to and from the airport close. Flights get cancelled and travellers get stranded for hours.

The key is to respect how fickle the weather is. Take travel insurance and don’t plan a short stay. Build in a few days of wiggle room in case a major road closes, and stay flexible. Bookmark the Icelandic Met Office at en.vedur.is and look at last year’s weather patterns for an idea of what to expect.

What to wear

Weather in Iceland is a mystery, and it changes as you move around the country. Pack for the landscape, not the calendar.

Summer (May to September): bring both light and warm layers: t-shirts, thin long-sleeved tops and shorts, plus trousers or jeans and a fleece or thick jumper. A waterproof, windproof outer layer is non-negotiable. An insulated jacket is worth packing if you feel the cold. Layers let you adapt to whatever that day throws at you.

Winter (December to March): stay warm and dry. Bring an insulated jacket for those cool northerly winds, base thermals, wool mid-layers and waterproof pants. For more detailed post see here.

All year round you need sturdy waterproof boots and wool socks. Don’t forget a swimsuit for Iceland’s famous thermal pools, which are found all around the country.

Polar night Vs midnight sun.

Iceland’s mainland doesn’t get true polar night, but winter days are short. Around the December solstice, Reykjavik gets only about 4-5 hours of daylight, and it looks like just after sunset for most of that time. The further north you go, the more limited the light, so plan your outdoor activities around it. Around midsummer it flips: the sun barely sets, and it never gets properly dark in Reykjavik from roughly late May to July.

The same logic applies to the aurora. You can’t see the northern lights in summer because the sky never gets dark enough. Check sunrise and sunset times for your dates before you plan your days.

Check here for sunrise and sunset time.

December Isn’t the Best Time for Northern Lights

Aurora season runs from late August to mid-April, and it never guarantees a show unless you are extremely lucky. You need clear skies. In my experience September and October are actually better bets than midwinter. Bad weather and low geomagnetic activity can ruin your chances even in the right place at the right time. Chasing aurora is a game of patience.

Tips for chasing northern light here.

Iceland Is (Practically) Cashless

A debit or credit card is all you need, with chip and PIN or contactless. You can get by without withdrawing any cash.

Budget for Food and Gas

Iceland is expensive, and I won’t sugarcoat it. Eating out and filling the tank will cost more than at home. Book a place with a kitchen and hit the supermarkets (Bonus, Kronan and Netto). Skip the overpriced convenience stores inside gas stations. If you’re driving, plan your grocery and fuel stops in advance.

New since I first wrote this:

Parking isn’t free anymore. Many top attractions now charge for parking, typically around 1,000 ISK (roughly $7-8) per visit. That includes Þingvellir, Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss and Jökulsárlón. Many have no booth, just cameras that read your plate. You pay via apps like Parka or EasyPark, or the website Checkit.is, or at a payment machine. If you forget, the fine goes to your rental company, which passes it on with an admin fee.
A road-usage charge replaced fuel taxes on 1 January 2026. Rental companies bill it either as a flat daily fee or per kilometre driven. Check how yours does it before you book.
Accommodation tax. There is a small per-night lodging tax that isn’t always included in the price shown on booking sites, so check the final total.

There is still no cheap Asian or junk-food restaurant. My rule is a proper restaurant for lunch (cheaper than dinner) and cooking or supermarket food for dinner. Try Icelandic food at least once. Hot dogs and fish and chips are fairly priced too. We loved Saegreifinn and Reykjavik Street Food in Reykjavik, but do check they’re still open before you go, as restaurants change fast.

Book Accommodation Early

Don’t wait during aurora season or peak summer (mid-June to mid-August). Rooms disappear fast.

Getting from the airport to Reykjavik

Reykjavik is about 45 minutes from Keflavik. In 2020 I told you a taxi could set you back about 15,000 ISK. Prices have since crept up, and a taxi now runs roughly 16,000-25,000 ISK depending on time of day and whether it’s pre-booked. There’s no Uber or Lyft in Iceland.

Rental car: pick it up at the airport, since most companies are there or nearby.
Flybus (to the BSÍ terminal) or Airport Express (drops near Harpa): about 3,999 ISK one way, with a pricier hotel drop-off option. This is the value winner for one or two people.
Public bus: the cheapest option but slow, around 90 minutes with a transfer.

Public Transport (or the Lack of It)

Iceland’s public transport is built for locals, not tourists. Strætó, the yellow bus, covers Reykjavik nicely, and you can buy a 1-3 day city pass. Intercity buses connect towns but don’t stop at waterfalls. If you’re not renting a car, you’ll need tours. Choose from big buses, coaches or minivans, private tours, day trips from Reykjavik, and multi-day tours.

Don’t Base Yourself in Reykjavik Only

Iceland looks small on a world map, so people think they can see it all in a couple of days. Distances deceive, roads are narrow and the weather is unpredictable, so always add buffer time. Plan 10-12 days to drive around the whole country, and don’t expect to drive the Ring Road in deep winter.

If you’re not comfortable driving in Iceland or coming in winter, here are local tour companies:

For convenience, try the marketplace https://guidetoiceland.is/, which works like GetYourGuide but is specific to Iceland.

Typical day trips from Reykjavik cover the Golden Circle, the South Coast and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Some add the Blue Lagoon or Sky Lagoon, snorkelling at Silfra or snowmobiling. Glacier walks and ice caves need multi-day tours, such as a 2-day South Coast and ice cave trip or a 4-day blue ice cave and northern lights trip. There are also 6- and 8-day winter tours around the island.

About the Volcanoes (Yes, Really)

The Reykjanes Peninsula, home to Keflavik Airport, Grindavik and the Blue Lagoon, has been in an active volcanic period since 2021. The eruptions have been effusive lava flows, not ash clouds, and none have disrupted flights to or from Iceland. The Golden Circle, the South Coast and the Ring Road are unaffected. The Blue Lagoon sometimes closes for a few days as a precaution. It doesn’t take walk-ins, so book ahead and keep your schedule flexible. Before you go anywhere near an eruption zone, check safetravel.is and only view lava with an authorised guide.

Self Driving in Iceland

If you’re not a solo traveller and you’re visiting outside winter, self-driving is the best way to see Iceland. Winter is a different beast: the wind can be ferocious and the weather changes in minutes. You can get sunshine, blue skies and hurricane-force snowstorms, all in one day.

In December and January, take organised tours. A local driver makes the go/no-go calls for you. February and March are doable if you watch weather warnings and check the areas you’ll travel through.

Don’t save money with a cheap car and basic insurance. Get a 4×4 in winter and take the platinum insurance. Check these three sites every day when driving:
en.vedur.is
saferavel.is
road.is

Read my detailed tips about self driving in Iceland here.

A snippet of winter driving in Iceland

Favourite Apps in Iceland

Veður: the official weather app. Forecasts are only reliable 2-3 days out, so keep checking as you move around.
112 Iceland: the official emergency app, useful if you can’t easily call or describe your situation.
SafeTravel: road safety alerts by SMS. If you’re hiking into the wilderness, submit your travel plan so search and rescue can find you if something goes wrong.
Google Maps: works very well in Iceland and is the only navigation app you need.
Wapp (the Walking App): trails with pop-up facts, stories and photos.
Strætó / Klappið: the bus system app for getting around Reykjavik.
Parka and EasyPark: for all your parking needs, which now include waterfalls.
My Aurora Forecast & Alerts: for aurora chasing, though I find it easier to check the aurora forecast on the Icelandic weather site.

The Last Word

Iceland will humble you. It’ll hand you four seasons before lunch, charge you for parking at a waterfall, and remind you with a rumble that you’re standing on a very active planet. But it will also give you a sky dancing green, a hot pool in the middle of a snowstorm, and roads with more sheep than traffic. Prepare properly, pack a good waterproof layer, keep your itinerary flexible and your sense of humour handy. The country is not going to bend to your schedule, so bend to its. See you on the Ring Road!