We Slept in Budapest and Woke Up in Zurich: Our Night Train Adventure
When I first sketched our itinerary, the plan was simple: fly from Budapest to Zurich (or Geneva) and call it a day. Efficient, predictable, and… honestly, a little boring.
Then I discovered a far more interesting option: a night train that links Budapest and Zurich. The kind where you board in the evening, go to sleep, and wake up in another country like you’ve unlocked a travel cheat code.
I floated the idea to Fabio. He was instantly in. That was all the encouragement I needed.
Why it made sense:
• Timing is perfect: travel while you sleep, arrive in the morning.
• We could book a 3-berth sleeper cabin (hello, privacy and sanity).
• Cost worked out cheaper than one night hotel + flights.
• And most importantly: it’s an adventure for the three of us—especially the kids, who had never done a sleeper train before.
If you’re the type who loves train travel (or wants to pretend you are), you probably already know the holy grail of train planning: Seat 61. Bless the human who built that website. It’s how I found this route in the first place.
The basics: Budapest → Zurich Night Train
This daily night train runs:
• Departs: Budapest Keleti 20:40
• Arrives: Zürich HB 08:20
There are three comfort levels:
• Sleeper cars (1–3 berths): made beds, breakfast included, and a mini sink in the cabin.
• Couchettes (4–6 berths): more budget-friendly, more… social.
• Seated carriages: for the brave, the sleepless, or the last-minute bookers.
The service is operated by Nightjet/ÖBB and Hungarian Railways (MÁV). I booked through Nightjet/ÖBB because it’s more user-friendly—and from Indonesia, I needed a VPN to open MÁV (still not sure why). Bookings open about one month in advance, and I booked the moment it became available because sleeper cabins sell fast.
Our journey: what it was actually like
We arrived at Budapest Keleti just after 8pm by taxi from our hotel.
Keleti at night is… an atmosphere. It felt a little deserted—probably because it was already late—but it also had that “everyone here is either going somewhere important or starring in a European film” vibe.
Food situation: not amazing. There was a small shop and bakery, but nothing that made me feel confident about dinner. I was very glad we had eaten beforehand. We grabbed mineral water, then headed to the platform.
You can’t board super early—we waited until the attendant arrived, around 20 minutes before departure.
The ticket mistake I will not repeat
I assumed a PDF ticket on my phone would be enough (because it’s 2026 and… logic). Turns out, for departures from Budapest, they specifically wanted a printed ticket.
The inspector was kind and let us through—possibly because Fabio spoke German with him, and that created instant goodwill. Moral of the story: print your ticket and save yourself the mini heart attack.
Inside the sleeper cabin
Our sleeper compartment was compact, as expected, but functional. We managed to fit:
• 1 large suitcase
• 2 medium suitcases
• 1 cabin-size suitcase
But “fit” is not the same as “live comfortably with your luggage.” Once the suitcases are inside, you’re not casually opening them like you’re at a hotel. I’d packed pajamas and essentials in our carry-on, so we were fine.
The beds were already made. We got pillows and towels, and the attendant gave us the full cabin briefing:
• how to lock the door
• where the toilet is
• the mini fridge with drinks
• and a breakfast form to fill in (the most civilized part of the whole experience)
Breakfast choices included jam options, whether you want ham, and your drink selection. Honestly: it felt oddly luxurious for something rolling across Europe in the dark.
Sleeping: the real test
A 3-berth sleeper is basically bunk beds, but make it international.
If you’re on the top bunk, you’ll feel the motion more. Alyssa, on the bottom bunk, fell asleep immediately. Fabio was totally fine too—those two can sleep through movement like it’s their superpower.
Me? I needed a little adjustment time. I eventually slept, but let’s say I became very aware that trains have opinions about curves and switches.
The mini sink was small but useful for washing face and brushing teeth—just be careful not to splash water everywhere unless you enjoy cleaning at 6am.
Morning arrival: the best part
We woke up around 6am, breakfast arrived, and we converted the beds into seats like a tiny transforming room.
And then—this is the magic—you watch the world brighten outside the window, and before you fully process that you’re awake, you’re pulling into Zürich HB.
No airport queues. No baggage drama. No “please remove your laptop.” Just: good morning, Switzerland.
Tips if you want to do this route
• Book early: sleeper cabins (especially 1–3 berth) go quickly.
• Print your ticket if departing from Budapest—don’t gamble on PDF.
• Pack a small overnight kit (pajamas, toiletries, chargers) in your carry-on. Assume you won’t open your big suitcase.
• Eat before you arrive at the station; Keleti late-night food options are limited.
• Top bunk = more motion. If someone is a light sleeper, put them on the lower bunk.
• Bring earplugs if you’re sensitive to train sounds or corridor activity.
• Keep valuables close (passport, wallet, phone) and lock the compartment when you sleep.
Closing
Would I do it again? Absolutely—especially for trips like this where you’re moving between cities anyway.
The Budapest–Zurich night train isn’t just transportation. It’s a two-for-one deal: you save a hotel night, skip the airport hassle, and give your itinerary a little story to tell.
We boarded in Budapest with tired eyes and winter coats… and woke up in Zurich feeling like we’d teleported and ready to continue our journey to Zermatt.
Not bad for a Tuesday night on rails.
