Seville: A City of Orange Trees and Endless Charm

As our taxi weaved through Seville, taking us from the Santa Justa train station to our Airbnb in the Santa Cruz district, I couldn’t help but notice something enchanting—orange trees were everywhere. They lined the streets, graced the iconic Real Alcázar, adorned public squares, and even added charm to the most ordinary streets. It was as if the city had been painted with bursts of green and orange.

Later, during a tour, I learned that these orange trees are more than just decoration; they’re an integral part of Seville’s cultural identity. Featured in art, literature, and cultural events, they stand as symbols of the region’s rich history and traditions. But here’s the twist: Seville oranges aren’t your typical sweet variety. Known for their bitterness, these unique oranges are prized not for eating fresh but for making the world-famous Seville orange marmalade—a deliciously traditional product of the region.

Falling in Love with Seville

Seville, the heart of Andalusia in southern Spain, is a city that captivates you with its rich cultural heritage, stunning architecture, and lively traditions. From the moment we drove past the orange trees and through the bustling squares, I felt an instant connection to the city. As our taxi navigated the narrow alleys of Santa Cruz—the historic Jewish quarter where our Airbnb was nestled—I knew we had chosen the perfect place to stay.

The charm of Santa Cruz, with its winding streets, hidden courtyards, and local flair, made me excited to explore every corner. I couldn’t wait to immerse myself in Seville’s vibrant atmosphere, from savoring local delicacies to uncovering its historic marvels.

How to get to Seville

Seville is well-connected by air, train, and bus, and it is also accessible by car. Here are the common ways to get to Seville:

• Flying into Seville airport (Aeropuerto de Sevilla), which is well-connected to major cities in Spain and other European destinations. You can fly directly to Seville from international airports, or you may have connecting flights through larger hubs like Madrid or Barcelona.

• High-Speed Train (Renfe AVE or Iryo): Santa Justa Train Station is the main railway station in Seville, and there is high speed trains connecting Seville to cities like Madrid, Barcelona, Malaga, and Valencia.
• Long-Distance Buses: Seville is accessible by long-distance buses from various cities in Spain and neighboring countries. Plaza de Armas Bus Station is a major bus terminal in Seville.

Where to stay in Seville

The best area to stay in Seville depends on your interests and your preferred atmosphere. Here are some popular neighborhoods and areas to consider:

• Santa Cruz: a historic Jewish quarter, known for its narrow streets, charming squares, and proximity to major landmarks like the Seville Cathedral and Alcazar. It also has plenty of restaurants and flamenco theaters are located in thus area.
• Triana: Located across the river from the city center, Triana is a vibrant neighborhood known for its lively atmosphere, traditional ceramics, and local markets. It has a more authentic, local feel but the location is slightly removed from the city center (about 30 minute walk).
• Arenal: situated between the historic center and the Guadalquivir River. It’s known for its theaters, shopping streets, and proximity to attractions like the Bullring and Torre del Oro.
• El Porvenir is a residential neighborhood with parks and cultural institutions. It offers a quieter atmosphere compared to the city center. Ideal if you want to stay in a less touristy place but still in proximity to Maria Luisa Park and museums.

How to get around

Seville is a pedestrian-friendly city, and many of its attractions are located close to each other in the historic city center. As our accommodation is located in Santa Cruz, we are able to walk anywhere and walking allows us to explore charming streets, squares, and landmarks at a leisurely pace. If your legs are tired, Seville has extensive network on bus, metro and tram.

• Tussam operates bus network in Seville. It connects different neighborhoods, and you can use them to reach areas outside the city center. Bus stops are well-marked, and route information is available at stops and online.
• Seville’s metro system consists of a single line that connects various parts of the city.
• The tram service in Seville connects the city center with the San Bernardo transportation hub.

You can also rent a bicycle using a public bike-sharing system called Sevici. You can rent bicycles from stations throughout the city and enjoy cycling along bike lanes and through parks. Taxis are readily available in Seville, and you can find them at designated taxi stands or hail them on the street. Taxis are metered, and when you take one as always ensure that the meter is running during your journey. You can also order Taxi using Free Now apps or use Ride-hailing services such as Uber and Cabify.

For a unique and traditional experience, you can take a horse-drawn carriage (coche de caballos) in major attractions such as Plaza Espana and Real Alcazar. These carriages have fixed price and can give you a different perspective on Seville’s landmarks.

What to see and do in Seville

Real Alcazar (Royal Alcazar)

Royal Alcazar is a stunning palace complex known for its remarkable architectural beauty and historical significance. It is not just a single building but a vast complex of interconnected palaces, courtyards, gardens, and halls. Each section has its unique character and architectural features, contributing to the overall grandeur of the site. The Alcazar is surrounded by lush gardens that add to its enchanting ambiance. The gardens include a mix of plant species, fountains, ponds, and pavilions.

Real Alcazar showcases a harmonious blend of architectural styles, including Islamic, Mudejar, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements. This mix of influences reflects the various periods of construction and renovations over the centuries. Origins of the Real Alcazar date back to the 10th century when it was originally built as a fortress by the Muslim rulers of the time. The Moorish influence is particularly evident in the intricate geometric patterns, horseshoe arches, and ornate tile work found throughout the complex.

Opening hours (Nov to March) from Monday to Sunday: 9.30am to 5 pm from Nov to March. 09:30 to 17:00. From April to Oct the closing hour is 8pm. Admission starts from €13.5 and if you want to visit the bedroom the additional admission is €5.5 (you will need to book 2 months prior). Reduced admission for children under 13 years old and reduced admission for student 18-25 years old.

Seville Cathedral (Catedral de Santa Madia de la Sede)

Seville Cathedral is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Located in the heart of Seville, Spain, it was built on the site of a former mosque. Construction began in 1402 and continued for over a century. The cathedral’s bell tower, known as the Giralda, was originally built as a minaret during the Moorish rule. It offers panoramic views of the city and can be climbed via a series of ramps. The cathedral is also the final resting place of Christopher Columbus. His tomb is held aloft by four statues representing the four kingdoms of Spain during his time. Seville Cathedral is located in Barrio Santa Cruz, close to Real Alcazar.

Cathedral is open for visit Monday to Saturday 11am to 5pm and on Sunday 2.30pm to 6pm. Admission starts from €13 (€12 online), reduced admission for students up to 25 years old and free for under 13 years old.

Plaza de Espana

Plaza de España is a masterpiece of Renaissance Revival style combined with Moorish influences. It is a grand square with a semicircular building that wraps around it and a canal with bridges representing the four ancient kingdoms of Spain. The building is adorned with colorful tiles, depicting historical scenes and notable figures from various Spanish regions. Each province has its own alcove with a bench. The canal in front of the building is crossed by several bridges, leading to a central island. You can take a boat ride along the canal.

The central plaza itself is expansive and is often used for events, markets, and gatherings. It offers a picturesque setting surrounded by the architectural beauty of the semicircular building.

Plaza de Espana is open and there is no admission. In the late afternoon you can watch flamenco performance by donation. A good teaser to see what flamenco dance is like if you don’t have time to watch a full flamenco performance.

Plaza de Espana is so impressive and beautiful that we went twice to take more pictures. The best time to take pictures is in the early morning or late afternoon. During these times, the natural light is softer and it enhances the colors of the tiles and the architectural details of the building.

Barrio Santa Cruz

Barrio Santa Cruz is a lively and charming neighborhood which truly captures the essence of Seville’s cultural and architectural heritage.

Take a stroll thru the narrow streets and hidden corners. Look for the traditional Andalusian architecture, with whitewashed buildings adorned with wrought-iron balconies and colorful flower-filled patios. Significant landmarks such as the Seville Cathedral, the Alcazar, and the Archive of the Indies are located here. The labyrinthine streets also lead to hidden gems like small squares and fountains.

You will also stumble into places offering Flamenco performances in a more intimate seating. The area also offers a mix of traditional shops, artisan boutiques, and cozy cafes. Pick a restaurant here for lunch or dinner It’s a great place to taste authentic Andalusian cuisine. Or stop in one of the coffee place to relax, have some churros and soak in the ambience.

Las Setas (Metropol Parasol)

Metropol Parasol has become a symbol of modern architecture in Seville and has received acclaim for its innovative and unique design. Designed by German architect Jürgen Mayer, Metropol Parasol is a wooden structure that resembles a series of interconnected mushrooms or giant umbrella canopies. It stands as a striking contrast to the historic surroundings.

The structure provides ample shade, making it a pleasant place to escape the sun. You can also take the elevator for some fee and enjoy panoramic views of the city. The basement of the Metropol Parasol houses the Antiquarium, an archaeological museum displaying Roman and Moorish remains discovered during the construction.

Watching Flamenco show

Seville is one of the birthplaces of Flamenco, and a perfect place to watch the show in an authentic setting. Many shows feature talented local artists who have a deep connection to the Flamenco tradition. Flamenco combines singing (cante), dancing (baile), guitar playing (toque), handclaps (palmas), and finger snapping. The synergy of these elements creates a powerful and expressive performance.

You can experience Flamenco in various venues, including tablaos (specialized Flamenco venues), theaters, and even some traditional bars that host intimate performances. Some venues offer a more intimate setting, allowing the audience to feel the intensity of the performance up close. Others may have larger productions with a stage and seating for a broader audience. If you stay in Santa Cruz area you will stumble into various venues offering flamenco show. You can shop around and choose which setting you prefer. If you come at peak season it is advisable to book ahead. Flamenco show usually last 1-1.5 hours and start at 7pm/7.30pm. You an also choose a place which offer a package of dinner amd show. One popular place to watch the show is Casa delamemoria. However if your schedule cannot fit watching flamenco dance, you can get the taste of Flamenco dance by watching the free performance (by donation) at Plaza Espana or Santa Cruz quarter.

Torre del Oro

Torre del Oro is a military watchtower with a dodecagonal (12-sided) base and three levels. It is made of limestone and mortar, and its name “Tower of Gold” is believed to be derived from the golden reflections cast by the building on the river. It dates back to the early 13th century, during the Almohad dynasty. Its construction was part of the defensive structures in the city, protecting the port and controlling access to the river. Today this watchtower houses the Naval Museum of Seville (Museo Naval de Sevilla).

One can climb to the top of the Torre del Oro for panoramic views of Seville and the Guadalquivir River. The ascent provides a glimpse into the tower’s historical architecture and the surrounding landscape. Torre del Oro opens Monday to Friday 9.30am-6.45pm and Weekend 10.30am-6.45pm. Admission is €3, reduced admission for 6 to 14 years old and free for under 6 years old.

You can stop to Torre del Oro on your way to Triana as it is situated in the west bank of the Guadalquivir River. Walking along the river to the right direction will lead you to the bridge to Triana.

Visiting Triana neighbourhood

This vibrant and historical neighbourhood is situated on the west bank of the Guadalquivir River, just across from the city center of Seville. It is well-connected to the rest of the city by bridges, including the iconic Triana Bridge.

Triana is renowned for its ceramic workshops and tile factories. The neighborhood has a long-standing tradition of producing colorful, hand-painted tiles known as azulejos. These tiles often adorn the facades of buildings and contribute to the area’s distinctive aesthetic. Triana is also known for its lively tapas bars, traditional taverns, and seafood restaurants. It’s a great place to taste local cuisine and socialize with friends while sharing small dishes

Drop by to The Market (Mercado de Triana), a bustling market where you can find fresh produce, seafood, and a variety of traditional products. Triana is also a great place to watch the flamenco show.

Plaza de Toros de Sevilla

The Plaza de Toros de Sevilla is the largest and most important arena for bullfighting in Spain. . The full name is “La Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla“. The oval arena is located in the El Arenal harbour district, was built in the 18th century and can accommodate 13,000 spectators. The Plaza de Toros has a unique Baroque façade, dating from 1762-1881.

In the Plaza de Toros, there is also the ‘Museum of bullfighting’ with, among other things, a hall with paintings about bullfighting. The museum displays all kinds of objects that show the history and evolution of bullfighting and toreros in Spain. 

Located near the bullfighting arena are several statues of people who were significant in the history of bullfighting, like the toreators Curro Romero, Manolo Vázquez and Maria de las Mercedes from Bourbon-Sicily, the mother of King Juan Carlos.

Plaza de Toros open everyday from 9.30am to 7-30pm. Admission start from €10. Reduced admission for 7-11 years old and free for 6 and under.

How long should you stay

If you need to pick which city in Spain you should spend the longest time, the answer is Seville. Not only you need 2-3 days to appreciate the city but you can also do day trip from Seville to Cordoba and Malaga.

A Lasting Impression

Seville is more than a destination; it’s an experience. The city invites you to slow down, take in its beauty, and let its traditions leave an imprint on your heart. For me, it all started with those orange trees—a simple yet profound reminder that Seville is a place where even the smallest details carry stories of history, culture, and an undeniable zest for life.

Happy Holiday! 😊