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How to travel by train across Spain

I like to travel by train in European countries when the country has a well developed and extensive train network Vs renting a car and drive. Taking a high speed train is always faster and you also save time and energy. Of course there is always a special case where it is better to drive so we can enjoy the scenery better at our own pace. So in all of my trips I usually combined train travel with self driving.

For the case of Spain, it has an extensive and well-developed train network that is known for its efficiency and connectivity. The Spanish railway system is managed by Renfe (Red Nacional de los Ferrocarriles Españoles), the state-owned railway company. Starting in 2020 Spain opens the door to private railway operators. Since then there are several railway companies you can choose from:

Renfe AVE Train

Renfe is the national railway company of Spain and operates the majority of train services in the country. Renfe offers a range of services, including high-speed trains (AVE and others), long-distance trains, regional trains, and commuter trains (Cercanías). Renfe is responsible for connecting major cities and regions, making it a crucial component of Spain’s rail infrastructure.

AVE trains are ‘full-service’ trains, so there is no luggage limits or extra fees to pay for suitcases or backpacks. There’s a cafe-bar, and the Premium fare gets you a first class leather seat in Comfort class with a meal & wine included.

You can book your Renfe ticket from their website or apps. If you cannot access Renfe website of apps from your country use a VPN.

Avlo

Avlo is low-cost operator, a subsidiary of Renfe with around 3 departures per day from only €7. There are strict baggage limits, you need to pay an extra €10 for a suitcase or backpack. There’s no cafe-bar, only vending machines, and no first class. Some seats may offer a restricted view.

Ouigo

Ouigo is another low-cost operator, a subsidiary of French railways (SNCF). It offers around 5 departures per day from only €9. There are strict baggage limits, you need to pay an extra €5 for a suitcase or backpack. In principle, Ouigo trains are one class only, but there are several cars of roomier ‘XL’ seating for a €9 surcharge which are really 1st class seats. There’s a cafe-bar.

IRYO Train

Iryo, is the new brand from railway operator ILSA, which began operating high speed train services in Spain in November 2022. Unlike their competitors (AVE, Avlo, and OUIGO Spain), iryo trains offer a premium service on board. Iryo is a high-quality ‘full service’ train, it doesn’t have luggage limits or extra fees to pay for suitcases or backpacks.

Iryo train take 2 hours and 30 minutes to travel between Madrid and Barcelona. They depart from Madrid Atocha and Barcelona Sants stations, and stop in Zaragoza along the way. Iryo’s services connect Madrid, Zaragoza and Barcelona. There are also services that run between Madrid, Cuenca, and Valencia or Alicante, as well as between Madrid, Córdoba, Seville and Málaga. Iryo has 5 seating classes starting from the most expensive is: Infinita Bistró, Infinita, Singular Only YOU, Singular and Inicial. The difference between Singular Only YOU and Singular is only the accessibility of Only YOU lounge. Only YOU is a name of a chain Hotel in Spain where Iryo has a cooperation with.

How to buy train tickets for Spanish Train

  • All of these rail companies have website where you can purchase your ticket online and you just need to keep the digital version in your mobile phone.
    Renfe: www.renfe.com
    Avlo: www.avlorenfe.com
    Ouigo: www.ouigo.com
    Iryo: www.iryo.com
    In the case of Renfe it has an apps which makes it easier to show your ticket. In the case where you cannot open the website, try using a VPN. I cannot open Renfe website from my home country so I always have to use VPN.
  • If somewhat you still have problem purchasing ticket directly from the rail company above, you can use a third party company which charges certain fees for your ticket purchase. Below are the companies you can use. I always purchase my ticket directly to save $$ but I usually use these third party companies to search which rail company service the specific route I need and then go directly to that rail company website.
    Trainline: a British-based company that provides an online platform and mobile application for booking train tickets. It is a digital rail and coach ticketing platform that allows users to compare ticket prices, find the best routes, and make reservations for train travel across various countries. Trainline’s services are not limited to a specific country; it covers multiple regions and collaborates with various railway operators.
    Omio: a travel platform that allows users to search and book various transportation options across Europe. Omio provides a convenient and user-friendly interface to compare and book tickets for trains, buses, flights, and ferries.

Useful Tips

  • On high-speed trains, all tickets come with a specified reserved seat automatically included. You can see the seating plan when you purchase your ticket. There is option to pay if you want to select seat on your own. But even if you don’t, if your group is under one booking they will put your group seating together.
  • In all Spanish train stations there is security check before boarding. It is a quick and simple baggage X-ray check before entering the departure area and your ticket may be checked. It doesn’t take as long and as comprehensive as the airport security but you still have to spare more time to go thru this security. I don’t experience this in any other countries in Europe, so this is Spain specific regulation.
  • Luggage: You take your small luggage with you onto your seat and store them in the above compartment or below your seat. For bulk suitcase you put it in the designated luggage rack. There is one in every coach usually on the back.
  • You still need to reserve ticket for babies and infants as you purchase your own tickets. Babies and infants under 4 years old travel for free if they sit on your lap. 4 to 13 years old gets a reduced price.
  • Food & drink: Renfe’s AVEs have a cafe-bar and Iryo has a refreshment trolley service. Ouigo has a cafe-bar, while Avlo has no catering other than credit-card-operated vending machines. You are always free to bring your own food and drink along to eat & drink in your seat.
  • WiFi & power outlets: There are power outlets at all seats in all these trains (the usual European 2-pin type). All these trains have free WiFi though connectivity is not always reliable.

How do we do it?

During our Spain trips, we use combination of Renfe train and Iryo train. Both offer similar comfort but Iryo is as winner with their spacious upper compartment which can fit a cabin suitcase, user friendly website and better pricing for similar route.

Us onboard Iryo train

We also have an article on top tips to travel by train in Europe here.
I hope this article come useful as you’re planning for your trip ☺️

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